The Eastern Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical.
This trip begins at the eastern end of the Granada coast,
known as the Costa Tropical. Between that point and the city
of Malaga, the traveller gets to know the varied countryside
of an always rugged coast. On his way he comes across tourist
centres and almost deserted coves, towns and villages with
an unmistakable Andalusian and Moorish profile as well as
interesting sights. (Total length of the trip: 169km.)
The road along the first stretch of the coast at the foot
of the la Contraviesa Sierra, which reaches into the Province
of Granada, runs parallel to the shore and skirts the beaches
and mountain spurs. Therefore it is sometimes slightly difficult
to negotiate. La Rabita is a good point of departure: an ancient
fishing village in the comforting shelter of a small fortress
and surrounded by cultivated land. A little further on, after
leaving behind a stretch of rocky coast, the traveller reaches
La Mamola, another seaside village with a large beach, Castell
de Ferro (21km from La Rabita) is another small place at the
foot of a hill: there a watch-tower is a reminder of the threat
of piracy, the same as in many other places along the coast.
From that point onwards the traveller enters the most tourist-orientated
sector on the Granada part of the Costa del Sol.
A 9km cliff separates Castell de Ferro from Calahonda, a small
bay bounded by rock formations. Torrenueva (at a distance
of 6km) is another summer resort close to a lovely beach.
From there it is 7km to Motril, a town with a harbour, surrounded
by an extensive plain where tropical crops are grown. A visit
of the town should include the 16C Collegiate Church and the
Sanctuary of Nuestra Seņora de la Cabeza, which dates from
the same period and was built on the ruins of the castle,
which, according to tradition, gave shelter to the mother
of Boabdil, the last king of the Granada Nasrids. The beaches
of Pariente, El Puerto and Las Azucenas make up the coastline
at Motril and have attracted a lot of tourism.
Salobreņa lies only 7km away on the slopes of a hillock with
an Arab castle at the top. The village has very steep whitewashed
streets and must be included on a visit. The view from the
old fortress reaches from the river valley of the Gudalfeo,
covered with cane plantations, as far as Sierra Nevada. The
old part of Salobreņa is perfectly preserved and it is a good
example of the Muslim villages in the ancient Kingdom of Granada.
In a westerly direction the road passes through a rugged countryside
of slopes covered with orchards.
The village of Almuņecar (17km) also lies in the shelter of
a Muslim castle and it is very interesting, too. Its most
outstanding features are probable the winding streets of the
old part, the Phoenician and Roman remains, especially the
eye-catching, well-preserved aqueduct, and the beaches of
San Cristobal, El Altillo, Puerta del Mar, Velilla, El Tesorillo
and others, which are ideal for the practice of water sports.
Not very far away there are La Mona Point, an excellent observation
platform overlooking the Mediterranean, and La Herradura,
another very recommendable beach.
The road finally enters the Province of Malaga. Maro is reached
first. It is an old area of fishermen's dwellings and belongs
to the neighbouring town of Nerja. This stretch of coast consists
of coves and small pebble beaches. Shortly after leaving behind
the town, on his right the traveller comes to a short turn
off for the Caves of Nerja, a breathtaking natural stage of
calcareous formations, where concerts are held. The prehistoric
cave paintings from the Palaeolithic period are very interesting.
Nerja (22km from Almuņecar) occupies a really privileged place.
With a huge plain full of orchards in the background, the
town seems to cling to a rocky projection, where an Arab castle
used to stand in other times and which is known today as the
Balcon de Europa (Balcony of Europe). The view from this observation
platform includes the neighbouring beaches with the cluster
of houses and their whitewashed faįades in the background.
Near the short avenue lined with palm-trees, there is El Salvador
Church, built in the 17C and 18C, which is a good example
of a long series of rural parish churches with an unmistakable
Andalusian air. Las Angustias Hermitage is another good Baroque
building.
A 6km regional road leads from Nerja to Frigiliana, an intimate,
whitewashed village which preserves a rural atmosphere. The
oldest part has a layout dating from Muslim times, while the
parish church - also 17C/18C - preserves a coffered ceiling
of Mudejar origin. Its wineries produce a much sought-after
wine.
By now the traveller has reached the region of La Axarguia,
one of the most attractive along the Costa del Sol. Inland
it consists of valleys full of orchards with a scattering
of small Moorish villages which are reached by following winding
local roads. Two of these villages - Archez and Salores -
still preserve the minaret turned bell tower of the former
mosque.
8km from Nerja along the coastal road, there is a 4km turn
off for Torrox, which is well worth a visit: the village lies
on a steep slope and consists of a lovely sequence of whitewashed
houses and roofs. La Encarnacion church and the Hermitage
of Nuestra Seņora de las Nieves preserve their remarkable
Mudejar traces. Back on the coast, the watch-towers and small
fortresses scattered along the coast will remind the traveller
of the threat of pirate incursions.
After eight kilometres of beaches there is the run off for
Algarrobo. On the way well-preserved Phoenician burial places
can be visited in the township of Trayamar. Also worthy of
a visit are Santa Ana church at the very top of the village
and the Hermitage of San Sebastian i Algarrobo.
Torre del Mar is an extensive beach skirted by summer resort
installations. From there Velez-Malaga, the capital of La
Axarquia and one of the most interesting places in the province,
lies 5km inland. El Arrabal de San Sebastian with a medieval
castle at the top is the oldest part. The more recent area
dating from the 16C and 17C has a long series of town palaces
and aristocratic houses. The most outstanding sights in this
ancient town, which played a decisive role in the conquest
of the Kingdom of Granada, are San Juan church, the Convents
of San Francisco, Santa Clara and San Jose de la Trinidad,
the Mudejar Patio (inner court) of San Marcos Hospital and
the palace used as the Town Hall today, apart from the Church
of Santa Maria la Mayor. 28km from Velez a turn off the coastal
road leads to the small village of Macharaviaya, where the
funerary monuments of the powerful Galvez family are found
in the crypt of the Baroque church. The beaches of Benajarafe
and El Rincon de la Victoria are traditional summer resorts.
There, at sunset the traveller may enjoy the spectacle of
el Copo a variety of fishing in shallow water. Nearby there
are Pedregalejo and El Palo, the beaches of Malaga, the capital
of the province. They are very crowded in the summer and are
skirted by small houses which used to belong to fishermen
in other times.
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